Jaipur
We loaded our bus early so to hit the road at 7:30. We see loads of school children going to school in pedicabs. On the highway to Jaipur we saw remains of three serious truck accidents. One truck was on its side and another had knocked off its front end when it sideswiped another tearing off a rear wheel of that vehicle. Given the way they drive, it is really amazing that there are not many more accidents.
Crossing into Rajasthan, it looks a lot like the Salinas Valley. It is difficult getting used to camels, horses, donkeys and tuk-tuks sharing the highway with trucks, buses and cars. The highways are divided but are definitely not CA freeways. On the way we saw more camels on the road than ever before. When pulling a load they tend to hold their heads very high which makes them look regal. Well as regal as a goofy camel can look.
The afternoon is for us to do as we please. I wanted to take some elephant and camel pix. Our guide suggested we walk around the hotel and look at a nearby monument. If there are no elephants there then let's just forget looking at the monument. We took off toward old town on foot which meant dodging traffic at intersections, dodging pedicab drivers looking for riders, dodging street children and the occasional street mom looking for handouts, and dodging holes in the sidewalks and streets some which were five feet deep. We found a batik cloth banner about 3 feet high of Ganesh for our son, Sandy. It was marked at 150 rupees but once we showed interest in it, the salesman said, "Oh, that's the wrong price. This one is 250 rupees." We didn't even look at each other and we just spun around and walked out. All the batiks were equal quality so he was just trying to rip us off which really burned. Just how stupid did he take us to be?
Today, we were to have ridden elephants up to one of the mountaintop palaces/fortresses, but because an elephant accidently killed several tourists several years ago, our tour company cancelled the ride. We took Jeeps instead. The government had found that the elephants were in extremely poor health and their work schedule was cruel. A number of them were totally blind! More than half of the elephants were confiscated and the remaining ones were permitted to take tourists up and down from the palace for a maximum of three times a day. The Jeeps here, which look almost authentic, are not. Jeeps are made by Mahindra and are powered by a clunky diesel motor. Inside they are more basic than “plain Jane.”
The Amber Palace, dating from the 16th century, is considered to be the most beautiful palace in India. Our visit to the Amber Palace was a bit overwhelming in size, age and hilltop position. The oldest section was constructed in the 1500s by a Hindu king. It was conquered by Muslims and enlarged. We walked through the courtyard of the harem; the maharaja had had eight wives each with separate apartments and each accessible by separate secret passages by the king. The secret passages were to prevent jealousy between the wives.
The first wife had a larger apartment and her own bathtub, the size of a very
large Jacuzzi. Some of the rooms were once covered in precious gems, which were
recently removed by the heir, the last prince before he donated the fortress
to the state. The state is replacing the gems with colored glass replicas.
The last heir is said to be fabulously wealthy after having turned many of his
palaces into hotels. He is said to own homes in London and elsewhere.
We visited an ancient solar observatory that is remarkably accurate. The largest of the sundials is correct to within 15 seconds a day. There are separate sundials for each of the zodiac signs to more accurately predict the future.
We took it easy at our hotel and left for dinner at a palace turned into a luxury hotel that was very fine in all aspects. As usual a doorman in a flamboyant Ghurka uniform greeted us. After passing through a series of small rooms we entered a courtyard set with small dining tables; a four piece Indian band all in costume were playing traditional music. In the center of the courtyard was a series of small pools forming a larger flower pattern; hidden lights carefully illuminated the pools. It all felt rather delicate.
At one corner of the courtyard two very young men dressed almost like princes offered handmade marionettes for sale. From there we entered a passage opening onto a covered terrace and then into the dining room. The walls, ceiling and pillars were painted in vivid floral motifs reminding me of oriental rugs. As always no women served us, only boys and men.
Back at our hotel enormous parties were underway. Cars were parked every which way and, once inside the hotel, it was difficult just getting into an elevator. Outside noise from horns continued to endlessly blend in with voices from people on the street.
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©Spreitz-------------